Tokyo Monday, 2008

December 1, 2008 - Monday, Tokyo



Detail of a Bell at the Senso-ji Temple

The jet lag kicked in early this morning– so I never really got back to sleep after waking around two am. My knee hurt where I twisted it recently. My legs ached from the walking. I felt like I was catching something and wondered if I did; would I have to wear the surgical mask you see people wear here who have colds. I almost felt like staying in bed, but I got up, had the hotel breakfast and was on the subway by eight fifteen heading to a temple on the other side of Tokyo at the end of the Ginza metro line in Asakusa.

The subway train was crowded but manageable when it arrived at my stop, Aoyoma-itchome. By turning sideways I slipped into a full car. As we pulled into the next station I saw there were long lines two and three abreast on the platform – at each spot where a subway door would open. The doors opened and people surged on, then with high-pitched cries more were pushed on. I noticed the men against the door opposite the open doors had braced themselves so they would not be crushed. The pressure of people was so great I actually experienced pain for a minute or two. I barely had enough room to breathe. The doors shut and off we went. People were pressed tight against me on all sides. I was no longer an individual, but part of a larger organism. This entire human mass swayed with the train’s motion. No one spoke. I looked from face to face – no eye contact. Two stations later, most of the passengers got off and my trial by subway was over. Note to self: avoid rush hour in Tokyo.

It was a cool sunny morning when I eventually emerged in Asakusa. The station is near the river. The air felt fresh. I walked around untill I found the temple complex. The first entrance was closed but when I rounded a corner I could see the shrine up ahead and smell the telltale scent of a working incense burner.

The Buddhist temple is called Senso-ji and has a huge red lacquer gate with large paper lanterns. The temple has been here since around 650 A.D. and includes several gardens, lots of shrines and a 5 story pagoda. I read that when the pagoda was destroyed during WWII the relics of all the believers had burned as well; so Sri Lanka gave one of Buddha’s small bones to be enshrined in the 5th level of the new pagoda.



People buy incense sticks, light them and stand them in the large incense burner – then waft the smoke over themselves for good luck. I gave it shot.













The temple was a complete hit – after my visit I felt rejuvenated and ready for more Japan. Next stop Tokyo’s main train station to buy a ticket for tomorrow journey to Kyoto. Just a little confusing! But by the time I was done it time for lunch. I walked in the direction of the Imperial palace through a part of town that resembles the fanciest parts of mid-town Manhattan. Big new skyscrapers, wide sidewalks, marble, fountains, under ground passageways filled with stores, restaurants and bars. I went under one of the skyscrapers to eat.

I found a neat place, nicely finished in traditional woods which served bowls of rice with fish, or chicken or shad row or seaweed, whatever… with miso soup - you pour the miso yourself from a teapot into the bowl. It was one of those places with pictures of meals for Westerners. It was also a pre-pay by machine place. You select the meal you want by pressing a button on a kiosk, pay the machine, a ticket comes out which you hand to the waitress who seats you. Unfortunately the 'picture the meal scheme' broke down at the ticket kiosk. The buttons were only labeled in kanji. But as always someone helped. The bowl of rice with steamed chicken and veg came with a side of tofu, delicious tiny chunk of squash and pickled something. I opened the small packet – it is a towel. I wiped my hands with authority. (lunch < $10) All through lunch the waitresses and the kitchen staff keep up a constant high-pitched sing-song dialog. My seat looked directly into the lively kitchen so I could watch them dice and boil.

After lunch I went back up to ground level and made my way over toward the Imperial palace. Only the outer gardens are ever open and it being Monday – even they were closed, but I could admire the wall and the moat. The place and its gardens occupy a huge piece of land in the center of Tokyo.



The last stop of the day was Shinjuku – a newer neighborhood in the western part of the city. I had the idea I would shop, but it was fairly overwhelming. I decided to take the rest of the afternoon off, go back to the hotel read, do laundry in the washer and dryer across the hall, etc.



Two final items. While laying in my bed reading – I felt a tremor. Later I checked on the official weather site and sure enough there had been a small earthquake this afternoon at just that time - about 25 mi NW of Tokyo. 3.7

I got my clothes washed but after an hour in the dryer it was clear the dryer was broken. Try saying that in Japanese!. I found a guy responsible fro our floor who found someone else who spoke English. Within half an hour they had removed the broken clothes dryer and replaced it with a new one! I like this hotel. In fact I like the city – I’ve never been anywhere so full of such nice friendly and polite people.

Tomorrow – fast train to Kyoto.